Things to Do in Kelowna in Winter (When You’re Not A Skier)

Growing up in Quebec, my father would often get the family together to head to Mont Tremblant to snowmobile through forested trails and past huge snow drifts. Those memories, along with the sheer thrill of riding on these powerful beasts, came crashing back to me recently when I was invited to go snowmobiling at Big White Mountain Resort in Kelowna. I was in.

As we revved our engines, we geared up for an exhilarating escapade into the wide-open terrain across stunning landscapes. Experiencing untracked fluffy bliss on a snowmobile is every bit as magical as stories make it out to be. Sitting atop the Polaris Voyageur, dashing through the snow-capped alpine, I felt the adrenaline rush of my youth course through me.

When you think of Big White Ski Resort and Silver Star Mountain Resort, you probably imagine snow-covered slopes and expert skiers zipping down mountains. But what if, like me, you don’t ski?

Well, both of these popular ski towns offer plenty of fun activities for non-skiers of all ages, including tubing, skating, snowmobiling and snowshoeing.

Earlier this March, I flew to Kelowna to spend an adventurous four days exploring all that the Thompson Okanagan offered. From snowshoeing to snowmobiling, spa treatments to scenic hiking trails, excellent dining to great shopping, the Thompson Okanagan provided a perfect winter/spring getaway, no skis required.

Stay, play, spa and dine at  SilverStar Mountain Resort’s Vance Creek Hotel & Conference Centre

With thrilling slopes, cozy streets lined with snow-dusted shops and multi-coloured wooden buildings reminiscent of an old mining town, SilverStar Mountain Resort is straight out of a postcard.

After taking a walk around this picturesque town, I was off to a unique dinner experience: the Snowcat Dinner Tour.

As snow lightly fell, I climbed into the front seat of SilverStar’s 12-passenger retrofitted snow groomer, AKA the Paradise Express. We rode up to the top of Paradise Camp, located at Putnam Creek on the backside of the mountain, and I took in peek-a-boo views of the Monashee mountain range. Myself and the other travelers were heading to a wood stove-warmed mountain outpost transformed into an exclusive retreat, reachable only by a snowcat journey through the winter woods.

The rustic-chic shack offered an unforgettable evening of mountain hospitality and exceptional cuisine. My meal began with a shaved vegetable and endive salad, followed by perfectly seasoned chicken breast with ricotta gnocchi, romesco sauce, kale and cauliflower purée. Paired with the Okanagan’s finest wine, the night was perfect.

Framed by the Canadian Rockies, my home for one night was the Vance Creek Hotel & Conference Centre. My cozy, spacious fireside suite captured the essence of this Western mountain town’s friendly community spirit. After a great night’s sleep, I relaxed and enjoyed magnificent views through the expansive windows while I sipped my morning coffee.

Then, I embarked on a two-hour snowshoe tour with my seasoned guide, Roy Chatham. We explore  a few of the 16 kilometres of groomed trails in the pristine backcountry that surrounds SilverStar.  After about an hour, we arrived to the Mountain View Cabin, aptly named for the expansive views it offers.

Post-snowshoe, it was off for the ultimate pampering recovery plan: a one-hour deep tissue massage at Elevate Spa.  It worked wonders on my sore muscles as I was wrapped in a cocoon of warmth.

Too soon, it was time to say goodbye to SilverStar as I hit the road back to Kelowna.

Lakeside Indulgence in Kelowna

Nestled along the shores of Okanagan Lake, the Hotel Eldorado  is one of those timeless lakeside retreats with a superb location. It boasts refined old-world charm and an array of marina amenities. Built in 1926 as a Victorian-style inn, this historic hotel has aristocratic roots.

Founded by English woman Countess Bubna, the Eldorado Arms Hotel was an instant hit. In the 1980s, Jim Nixon expanded upon the renamed hotel and moved it (by barge) in April 1989 to its present location.

Overlooking the lake, my spacious, well-appointed suite was adorned with a kitchenette, sitting room with an electric fireplace and a bedroom with a jet-tub and king-sized bed. It felt more like a high-end country estate than a hotel.

The Eldorado’s Bar & Lounge exudes a private-club ambiance with walls adorned with memorabilia dating back to the early 19^th century.  This waterfront restaurant serves up locally inspired, organic farm-to-table cuisine for an unforgettable dining experience. While enjoying a fine glass of Okanagan red, I started with the golden crisp Brussels sprouts with a hint of garlic and maple syrup – they were some of the best Brussels sprouts I’ve ever tasted. I followed that with a delectable roasted beet and greens salad.

The next morning I headed to the award-winning Lakeside Dining Room for breakfast.  As I took in the ceiling antique row boat and the lake views in this quaint narrow dining room, I indulged in a classic avocado toast on house-made focaccia.

I’ve been to numerous wine tastings, but never a coffee tasting. After breakfast, I went to Craft 42 Roasters. Located off the beaten track, this coffee shop was packed. I don’t think I realized I knew so little about coffee beans and roasting methods. My knowledgeable host, co-owner Aaron Moore, had an impressive passion for ethically sourced coffee from around the globe. I left debating permanently changing my own at-home coffee habits.

Before boarding my plane home, I stopped to visit the multi-purpose KF Centre for Excellence, which is  situated on the Kelowna Airport campus. If you are an aviation history buff, this expansive two-level centre is for you. It’s a legacy project by longtime Kelowna resident Barry Lapointe, whose passion for aviation (many airplanes in the centre are from his collection) led to the formation of this iconic structure—one that celebrates everything about the history of aviation in Canada. Be ready to spend a few hours discovering airplanes dating back as old as the 1944 de Havilland 98 Mosquito.

Wine and Dine in the Okanagan Valley

Perched above the foothills of Okanagan Valley with views of the sparkling blue waters of Lake Okanagan is the award-winning Cedar Creek Estate Winery. I had a reservation for dinner at Home Block Restaurant, which was nominated for “Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2019” by Air Canada’s Enroute Magazine.

I settled in for a wine tasting, which took place in the sprawling modern farmhouse structure. I started off with a big 2022 Estate Syrah. After sampling a couple more reds, the final one was my favourite: the premium organic Estate Platinum 2022 Haynes Creek Cabernet Franc.

Then, it was dinnertime. The bounty of the Okanagan Valley takes the spotlight at Home Block Restaurant. The large wood-fired grill accentuates the beautiful local produce that finds its way into the rustic, unforgettable dishes. The Italian burrata salad with blood oranges and wild seabass entrée (cooked over coals with roasted beets and fennel) were both simply divine.

3 Spots to to Shop in Downtown Kelowna

Lakehouse Home Store will inspire you to get cooking. There are two floors filled with a diverse collection of tools, accessories and appliances for cooks and aspiring cooks—you can spend hours in here.

Bia & Boro is a funky store is known for its hip, contemporary clothes for men and women. Even though it caters to a somewhat younger demographic than myself, I discovered super cute stylish sweaters.

When I travel, I like to spend time in independent bookstores. Mosaic Books has been opened since 1968 and features 17,000-plus new adult and kids titles in-store, and more than 6,000 bargain-priced, publisher clear-out or remainder titles.

How to get there: Departing from the Vancouver International Airport (YVR), WestJet offers several daily flights to Kelowna, which are less than an hour.