Farm Animals, Waterfalls and Markets: A Family-Friendly Summer Getaway to Parksville Qualicum Beach

Those looking for a Vancouver Island getaway may overlook Parksville Qualicum Beach. But this low-key locale has all the charm—not to mention expansive stretches of sand and some of the warmest ocean temperatures in Canada—of better-known tourist hotspots.

To test this theory, I took the whole family—myself, my husband, seven-year-old son and five-year-old daughter—to the area to explore its summer activities and family friendliness. We kicked off the journey at Horseshoe Bay, where we took the hour-and-a-half ferry to Nanaimo.

A Few Pit Stops on the Way

Rusted Rake Brewing

When we arrived, it was nearing lunchtime, so we stopped at Rusted Rake Brewing between Departure Bay and Parksville. There, we toured the property and learned about the brewery, farm and eatery. The key takeaway: they prioritize local suppliers whenever possible, and according to co-owner Craig Nichols, they’re “very good at it.”

I ordered the (frankly, huge) West Coast bowl, and my husband enjoyed the beer-battered ling cod burger alongside a sample tray of beer (the spruce tip IPA was his favourite). Our kids were especially delighted by the incredibly thick grilled cheese. We sat on the upper patio with a view of a corn field gently swaying in the breeze, while a separate dog-friendly patio below had several furry friends that entertained the under-10 set. It gets busy here, so plan accordingly.

North Island Wildlife Recovery Centre

Sufficiently refuelled, we made our way to NIWRA, which is dedicated to caring for and releasing wounded, ill or orphaned wildlife. Since they opened in 1985, thousands of animals have been in their care. Many are released back into the wild, but those that won’t survive on their own have a permanent home at the facility. Since we were visiting in early summer, our guide John said the centre is very busy with migrating songbirds. But visitors can see ravens, eagles, turtles, owls and even a bear.

Some favourites include Opal, a white raven; and Boo, a one-eyed Great Horned Owl. Enty, a Muscovy duck, who pants like a dog and “wags” his tail, was only outdone by a small pond stocked with turtles (at least 45 by my son’s count).

Where to Stay

Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort & Conference Centre

After all that excitement, it was time to check into our room at Tigh-Na-Mara. The resort has a mix of rustic cabins, spa cabins and oceanview rooms. We were in the latter, with a fireplace and large patio overlooking the ocean where we could watch the tide recede by a kilometre when it was out, and then trickle back in.

Parents wanted to relax and unpack, but children wanted to check out the pool, so over to the pool we went. The pool and hot tub are indoors, which is great for year-round use, and also solved the “sunscreen fight” that parents face when trying to lather up their kids.

A more serene bathing experience, with significantly less Marco Polo, can be had at The Grotto, the resort’s on-site spa. There, spa-goers move between the mineral pool (the grotto), whirlpool, saunas and cold-splash waterfall, before relaxing beside the outdoor fireplaces or in the lounge.

Waterfront Dinner

Beach Club Resort

When the concierge at the Beach Club Resort took the keys to our old car and told me the valet would take care of parking, I knew we had arrived. The evening was warm and sunny, so we sat on the patio just steps from the beach. The only way to get closer to the water would be to take a picnic basket out on the sand. With everything taken care of, all there was left to do was eat.

A few beachy cocktails and some indulgent mains—steak for me, and the seafood boil with chile-garlic broth for my husband—made this meal feel like vacation. The kiddos chose standard chicken-finger fare, but when we asked for half fries, half vegetables, we got huge plates of each. Parents happy, kids happy.

A Full First Day

Parksville Downtown Farmers’ Market

If local markets call to you, the Parksville Downtown Farmers’ Market operates into October and is the only Sunday market in the area. When we visited, the vendor turnout was small but very friendly, and the nearby community garden and MacMillan Arts Centre with its galleries and gift shop made this a charming, artsy stop.

The Truffle Farm

In 1999, Grant and Betty Duckett decided to see whether black périgord truffles could grow in Canada—and in 2007, they finally saw the fruits of their labour. That was the beginning of The Truffle Farm, which has now grown to include special events, workshops and Lagotto Romagnolo dog breeding (traditionally a truffle-hunting dog from Italy).

When we arrived, we were greeted by Virginia Brietzke and her dogs—one barky older gent who she assured us was a “doorbell,” not a guard dog, and one very excited puppy—before setting off on a tour of the property. You can visit the farm by appointment, or join one of their scheduled events, such as flower arranging and cooking classes. Of course, it’s worth trying one of their truffle-infused products, available in their online shop or in their small on-farm store. Just be sure to make an appointment.

Little Qualicum Cheeseworks

Next door to The Truffle Farm is Little Qualicum Cheeseworks, a family-run dairy farm and artisan cheese producer. We started with a self-guided tour of the farm and paid a visit to the rabbit hutch and the herd of dairy cows and calves (including a few impossibly cute calves that were only days old). A robot milker displays a live feed of cows being milked, but the robot that really stole hearts was R2DMoo, a robotic feed pusher.

There was no cheese being made when we visited, but when the magic is happening, watch through the big windows of the cheesemaking facility. The automatic milk dispenser was in full swing, though, with a good-sized crowd waiting to fill their own containers. We tucked into the farm shop instead and perused the local wares before settling on some cheese to take with us.

Milner Gardens & Woodland

After all that activity, a quiet walk in the woods was just what we needed. There were the usual complaints about being “too tired” to walk from the short-legged contingent of our group, but as soon as we were on delightfully shaded, wooded paths, those tired legs recovered and were sprinting through the 70-acre estate. In short: we made it to the delightful Milner House and Camellia Tea Room in no time flat.

The house inside was lovely, but what really captured our attention were the grounds. The manicured grand lawn contrasts against towering Douglas firs, the wild garden and the rocky shoreline below. It’s easy to see why several members of the Royal family visited when it was still a private residence, including Prince Charles and Princess Diana, and Queen Elizabeth II.

Nanoose Bay Cafe

All that activity—and we had to visit the pool before dinner—worked up an appetite, so we made our way to Nanoose Bay Cafe. Perched in Schooner Cove, just above Fairwinds Marina, the views are spectacular out of the floor-to-ceiling windows. Of course, the menu boasts plenty of seafood—the tuna sashimi was spectacular—but the handmade gnocchi (made fresh daily) stole the show.

Not to mention that after a few days of travel, when all your kids have eaten is chicken fingers, a kids’ menu that includes dumplings and grilled salmon is appreciated. There’s also a small on-site shop that carries regional goods for those looking to snag a souvenir.

A Scenic Second Day

Cedars Restaurant & Lounge

There’s something special about waking up and wandering over to the restaurant for breakfast without even leaving the property. This eatery has a large patio, but because it was still early enough to be chilly, we opted to dine inside. The waffles with whipped cream and colouring sheets made this breakfast a 10/10 for the kids, while my husband and I were swayed by excellent Americanos, the smoked-salmon Benedict and a traditional breakfast with perfectly crispy bacon.

Englishman River Falls Provincial Park

At this provincial park, there are two sets of falls (upper and lower), and both walks are family-friendly (read: not too treacherous or long). We tackled the lower falls first. On the way down, the kids enjoyed going off path a bit to explore the forest.

When we arrived at the bottom, we crossed a footbridge overlooking the falls and then climbed down to the water’s edge. The water is calm but cold, a perfect swimming hole for those who dare, with a rocky shore for the kids to explore without feet getting too wet. At least so we thought. Both kids fell in—to very shallow water—so feet (and beyond) got wet after all.

But even with this setback, we were able to climb back up and make our way to the upper falls, the more spectacular of the two. There is more exploring that can be done by drier and more adventurous folk, but all in all, this is a very accessible outdoor adventure.

Rathtrevor Beach Park

This provincial park is fronted by coastline that stretches two kilometres, and boasts old-growth forest, picnic areas and a popular camping area. When the tide is out, it recedes by almost a kilometre, leaving warm tide pools to explore and an expanse of sand to explore. Once the tide comes back in over the sunbaked sand, the water is warmed to a very palatable swimming temperature.

Our kids had a lot of fun exploring the tide pools, where tiny crabs scurry around, and ocean treasures like sand dollars wait to be examined. Once the tide started coming back in, we walked back in with it. The park is so close to Tigh-Na-Mara that we simply used the resort’s beach access, then walked along the sand until we were in the provincial park.

Deez Bar & Grill

This laid-back spot for casual pub fare is where you can find locals enjoying the big game. On the night we visited, a World Cup game had fully captured half my family’s attention, even though we were on the patio. It was also where my son tried calamari for the first time, and more importantly, liked it. Burgers, fries and crowd pleasers like onion rings made this option an easy sell with the kids.

The Last Stops Before Heading Home

The Old Country Market

If you don’t recognize the name of this market, what about goats on the roof? Famous for the ungulates that keep the sod roof trimmed, this market is a famed landmark in B.C. But what’s on the inside is just as good as the outside (sorry, goats).

The market is busy with people perusing the expansive collection of food, toys and home goods. There is an impressive array of imported groceries, with food from almost every European country, alongside local and Canadian specialties. Picture any flavour of candied salmon you can dream of just down the aisle from artisanal Italian pasta and British Jaffa cakes.

Prepare to lose your kids in the toy section and be okay with it because it gives you two minutes to peruse for souvenirs. There’s no way of getting out of there without something—in our case it was several somethings.

Paradise Fun Park

There’s no better way to wrap up a vacation with kids than with a spirited round of mini golf. All weekend, as we zipped through Parksville on Island Hwy, the huge castle and boot-shaped house caught our kids’ attention. And let me tell you, it did not disappoint. There are two 18-hole mini golf courses with a Surf ’N’ Turf theme—Victorian mansions (turf) and a pirate ship (surf). We started with the “turf” course, which we were told was slightly easier, although both were very doable for littles.

If you are still in the mood to play but have already Tiger Woods-ed your way through both courses (like we did), there are bumper boats and an arcade to keep the fun going. And if your kids are anything like ours, those hole-in-ones will be excitedly talked about long after you’re home.