Where to Eat, Stay and Storm-Watch in Tofino

Tofino conjures up images of sunny, sandy getaways. But the fall season brings an all-together new reason to head to this popular surfing destination. From late October through  March, Mother Nature puts on a remarkable show as storms arrive on the island’s jagged west coast, where massive waves pound the rocky shores and roll across unspoiled beaches.

As I drove from the Duke Point ferry terminal towards Tofino, I was looking forward to once again witnessing this powerful phenomenon. As soon as I unpacked my suitcases in my luxurious suite at the Relais & Châteaux’s Wickaninnish Inn, (The Wick as it is affectionately called locally), I rushed outside to the balcony. In the dark, I couldn’t really make out the landscape… until I snapped a picture with my phone. As I felt the fierce rain on my face, I was rewarded with photos of foam-flecked mammoth waves with white-tipped pulses of water propelled by the high tide.

Watching in awe, I was in no hurry to leave my front row seat to the infinite rolling of the water.

I’m not alone in my curiosity in this mighty spectacle. Although the days are typically grey, windy and rainy in autumn, Tofino’s storm-watching views are known to draw nearly as many tourists as the surfing scene does each summer.

We can thank The Wick’s owner, Charles McDiarmid, for spearheading the storm-watching movement. He recalls huddling with his family in a cabin and running along the rocks of Chesterman Beach in wonder of the crashing waves. When it came to designing The Wick, McDiarmid made sure that the resort and guest rooms offered spectacular storm views.

He succeeded, and guests started coming to witness for themselves. In 2011, the Canadian Tourism Commission named storm-watching at the Wick a Canadian Signature Experience—a title it still lives up to.

Tofino’s Rainy-Day Outdoor Activities

Tofino is a community surrounded by nature—within and surrounded by Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks, it is part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and next door to the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.

Each morning,  I donned my rain jacket and boots for a brisk walk along Chesterman Beach. I passed dogs playfully retrieving driftwood, joggers leaving their footprints in the wet sand and even surfers clad in full head-to-toe wetsuits braving the surf.

Meares Island

Once the site of protests between environmentalists, Tofino residents and the Indigneous people against logging giant, McMillan Bloedel, the “War in the Woods” resulted in a halt to logging, and the formation of the Wanachus/Hilthuu’is (Meares Island) Tribal Park.

Because of this collective’s hard-fought dedication to protecting the 8,500 hectares of spectacular ancient forests, travelers like me get to enjoy this special place.

It takes about 10 minutes to get to Meares Island via Tofino Water Taxi. The first part of the trail, which has a wooden boardwalk, features the biggest trees. Walking the boardwalk takes approximately 15 minutes one way. For the adventurous, the trail continues on in a large clockwise loop back to the beginning. The entire loop trail takes approximately 2 hours.

With sunlight filtering through the canopy of this old growth rainforest—home to some of the world’s largest Western Red Cedar Trees—I felt fortunate to be able to experience this impressive grove that has trees as old as 1,500 years.

A little-known fact: Tofino’s only water source comes from Meares Island.

Long Beach Nature Tours

For me, Tofino is about reconnecting with nature through the ocean and old-growth rainforest. One morning, I met up with Long Beach Nature Tours’ owner/guide Liam Ogle on Chesterman Beach right outside The Wick. Throughout his hour-long tour, which took me along the forested trails, Ogle provided a history lesson about this temperate rainforest. First off, Ogle told me temperate rainforests are rare, but close to 25% of the world’s temperate old-growth rainforests are right here in B.C. This unique ecosystem thrives in mild climates near coastlines. Another tidbit I was unaware of is that only three species of trees grow here: Sitka, spruce and the Western hemlock. I left with a deeper appreciation for this natural wonder that flourishes right here in my own province.

Long Beach

It’s no surprise that this sandy coastline is the longest beach on the island, extending 16 km from Ucluelet to Tofino. It’s part of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. I walked for nearly two hours along this seemingly never-ending stretch of white sand while taking in the relentless pounding of the tempestuous waves crashing against equally imposing rock formations.

Where to Eat in Tofino

When it comes to Tofino’s culinary scene, the picturesque surf town has it all: from white-tablecloth dining to beachside diners and everything in between, Tofino’s gastronomy is just as impressive as those crashing waves. Here are a few of my favourite spots.

The Pointe

The Wick’s flagship restaurant, The Pointe, offers 5-star service without pretension. Each night, executive chef Clayton Fontaine (former chef at Vancouver’s Osteria Savio Volpe) focusses on ingredients sourced and foraged from Tofino’s ocean, shoreline and forests for his three-course table d’hote menu inspiration.

With its exposed beams, Indigenous artwork, grand statement copper fireplace, sky-high wrap-around windows and expansive views of the Pacific Ocean, The Pointe provides a sophisticated environment that promises a superb fine dining experience.

Fontaine and his team craft casually elegant dishes that capture the essence of the bounty and the spirit of their surroundings. Melt-in-your-mouth cornbread was followed by a tenderloin steak topped with maitake mushrooms with Jerusalem artichoke puree. Then came the après dinner dessert: house-made chocolate chunks with fresh fruit. Fontaine prepared an imaginative carte du jour that was perfectly executed and paired with some of the best of our BC wines—each course presented with traditional white linen finesse.

The Pointe has been recognized by Wine Spectator Magazine with an Award of Excellence—I recommend you take a look at the restaurant’s exceptional wine cellar.

Ombré

The new player in town, Ombré, is the “cousin” to the award-winning Wolf in the Fog. At the helm is executive chef David Provençal (formerly sous chef at Wolf). His creativity surely stems from a very active imagination. Ombré serves elevated yet laidback Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine with an innovative twist.

I must have looked perplexed when the first dish Provençal brought out looked like dessert. In fact, it was a Madeleine and foie parfait (named after his grandmother), a savoury French-Canadian delicacy with duck liver, buckwheat, brown butter and raspberry foie gras, dusted with raspberry sugar. I’ll admit I’m not a fan of Fois gras, but I felt compelled to give this one a try. I was surprised at how tasty it was. Other memorable plates included the lentil hummus with house-baked flatbread, whipped to perfection and topped with a few spoonfuls of creamy, charred eggplant, the refreshing roasted golden beets salad infused with citrus, and the halibut and frites. The standout was Ombré’s signature sourdough campanelle – a pasta dish crafted from its day-old bread. 

Shelter

The original Shelter, a popular restaurant with locals and tourists alike, burned down in 2022. Luckily for its legion of fans, the eatery found its new home at the Tofino Resort and Marina. Once the 1909 Kitchen and Bar, the expansive space has received a stunning facelift. Home to some of the best seafood in Canada, Shelter features a diverse menu that include local, wild-caught seafood, organic ingredients and ethically sourced meats.

Known for classics like their Tofino surf bowl, salmon and kale bowl (wonderful), and inventive renditions like suze crispy calamari, Shelter is a must-stop on your next road trip.

P.S. If you are lucky enough, cozy up at the cabin-like corner with the floor-to-ceiling fireplace and comfy seating. It was my favourite after-dinner spot to sit with a glass of wine.

Long Beach Lodge Resort

Inspiring vistas of Cox Bay are the best breakfast theatre. I dined in the resort’s cozy Great Room close to the roaring fireplace. Designed to replicate the owner’s own living room, clusters of weather-worn couches and oversized chairs invite you to relax. With an extensive menu, I chose the great room omelette (oven roasted tomatoes, arugula, basil pistou and goat feta served with pickled beet, cucumber and pea shoot salad) that taking the simple omelette to the next level.

The Shed

This spot is renowned for its burgers but for me, the Pachamama bowl—teeming with fresh-caught albacore tuna, roasted butternut squash and beets, farro, kale, ricotta, apples and Brussels sprouts—was outstanding. This small funky diner (owned by the same restauranteurs as Shelter) turns out delicious fare, sourced locally as much as possible.

Tacofino

At the back of a surf shop parking lot is the legendary Tacofino food truck—where it all began for the chain of nine restaurants.  Piled high and rolled tight with fresh-caught cod, beans, salsa, cabbage, and chipotle mayo, I dare say this deliciously sloppy burrito’s twang of ingredients is what sets Tacofino apart.

P.S. The beauty of visiting in the fall season is that the line ups are shorter.

Surfside Grill

Located outside the Pacific Sands Beach Resort, this hip beachy vibed shack can make you forget it’s cold and drizzly. After ordering the fish chowder, which is truly unforgettable, and the cod tacos, I grabbed a seat around the firepit and enjoyed listening to the waves along Cox Bay, considered Canada’s #1 surf beach.

P.S. You know the fish is fresh because the owner Jeff Mikus is a commercial fisherman.

The Best Hotel for Storm-Watching in Tofino

Recently awarded with Condé Nast Traveller’s 2024 Readers’ Choice #1 Resort in the USA and Canada, The Wickaninnish Inn is quite simply one of the best hotels I’ve ever been privileged to stay in. A haven of peace and serenity, the Wick invites guests to recharge in a tranquil, stunningly idyllic environment. From the locally hand-carved doors to the crafted driftwood chairs, each room/suite also boast a fireplace, extremely heavenly beds and much more.

Gumboots or other waterproof footwear, toques, hats, rain pants and rain jackets are almost a necessity at this time of year. If you forget to pack your rainboots and rain jacket, no worries. The Wick supplies both while you are a guest of the resort.

How to Get to Tofino

From the Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal, take a BC Ferry to Nanaimo, which is a scenic two-and-a-half hour ride. Then, a roughly three hour drive that takes you past lakes, rivers, mountains and forests. I suggest a stop at Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Park, where you meander picturesque forested trails boasting 800-year-old giant Douglas fir trees. Located on the Alberni Highway 4 between Parksville and Port Alberni, this is a must-stop spot on your way to Tofino.