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The casual atmosphere of this friendly neighbourhood restaurant has made this quite the popular place to be. But the proof is in the pudding … as the saying goes.
After months of eagerly awaiting Tsawwassen’s most highly anticipated new restaurant, the Four Winds Beach House & Brewery opened its doors a month ago. The line ups since then have been surprising even to co-owner Brent Mills, who along with his brother Adam Mills, co-founded Four Winds Brewing Co. in Ladner.
“We expected to be busy but not to this extent,” says Brent Adams. “It is beyond our expectations, as we have welcomed a great stream of locals and visitors from across the Lower Mainland.”
Indeed, on the night I visited, both the patio and restaurant were packed. Guests have fallen for Four Winds Beach House & Brewery’s coastal-themed dining experience with upscale pub fare and award-winning craft ales; brewed on-site using Southlands-grown hops.
Adam Mills described the atmosphere as: “Warm and welcoming, while invoking a fun and lively spirit, reminiscent of being on vacation. We’ve used materials like western red cedar, tinted concrete, brass, warm fabrics and sea shells to pull inspiration from the surrounding area, as well as our nautical roots to help create the grounding beach house vibe we were looking for.”
It’s working!
Located in the heart of Southlands Market Square, in a community close to the beach and deeply rooted in farming and food, the bill of fare is inspired by food grown on the land close by.
“The focus here is on serving tasty, high-quality, locally sourced food, including Southlands farmland, that complements the farm-to-table experience,” says Adam Mills. “Imagine enjoying a meal while gazing out at a unique “agri-hood” with 530 acres of farmland, green spaces and a bustling market square – it’s an experience that elevates dining to something more than just eating out.”
At the helm of the spacious, buzzing open kitchen is executive chef Blake Burns, the former head chef at Cactus Club Café. Working with the brothers, the Red Seal chef came up with a small but innovative, approachable carte du jour packed with flavour.
“My philosophy is not to overcomplicate the dishes but rather enhance them,” Burns says. “We are a from-scratch kitchen, where even our French fries are also made in-house. We like to serve some of those classic dishes everyone loves but with our own twist.”
For my starters, I ordered the golden beet salad, a delicious combination of deep yellow-to-orange fresh roasted and pickled beets, seasonal stone fruit (in this case peaches), whipped goat cheese, bee pollen and Southland’s own chili honey – which gave the appetizer a sweet-and-savory taste. The golden beet salad cannot be skipped – I truly could have licked the plate clean.
The beet salad has been so popular, Burns says, that it will remain on the fall menu. However, the peaches will be substituted by in-season apples from the orchards right outside the restaurant.
“This fall, we will also begin to offer weekly specials inspired by what the surrounding land and sea can provide us,” says Burns, who oversees a kitchen crew of 23.
Another highlight that truly stands out as well is the Italian burrata & sun golds salad, a stunning medley of slow-roasted sun gold tomatoes and roasted hazelnut, served with warm grilled crusty slice of sourdough.
For my main, I went for the spiced cauliflower steak with crispy polenta, romesco sauce, hazelnuts, olives and fresh herbs. This is one of the most creative vegetable dishes I’ve ever tasted.
Now, I can’t be at the Four Winds Beach House & Brewery without a mention of its multiple award-winning craft beers, some of which are brewed onsite.
The restaurant offers 16 craft beers on taps, of which distinct seasonal brews can be rotated, including two new Czechoslovakia-inspired lagers for Fall: the pale lager christened Archetype and Antithesis, a dark lager.
However, if you are like me and don’t partake in beer, Four Winds features a lively cocktail program and a curated boutique list of wines and ciders exclusively from B.C. As a wine drinker, I opted for the Bench 1775, a smooth yet bold blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the Osoyoos/Naramata Bench.
Finally, it was time for dessert. Having said that, I seldom eat dessert but encouraged by Burns to give the lavender cheesecake a try, I relented. I though perhaps I’d have a bite or two and bring the rest home. This was literally the best cheesecake I’ve sunk my teeth into, a perfect fusion of ethereally light, creamy texture with a hint of lavender … simply divine.
So, the real question is, does Four Winds Beach House & Brewery live up to the hype?
It absolutely does! Burns and his team ensure that each plate not only tantalizes the taste buds but also pays homage to the local culinary heritage. Signature dishes, each with a story of its own, embody the essence of the ingredients’ natural flavours.
The Four Winds Beach House & Brewery, located at 6350 Market Ave., Tsawwassen, seats 136 seats inside, while the patio seats 72. To make a reservation, visit FourWindsbrewing.ca or call 604-940-2985.