48 Hours: A Wellness Weekend in Victoria and Esquimalt

Sometimes a quick getaway gives us a little push through the long, dark days of January. When there’s no time for a two-week vacation, a two-day break can save the day by clearing the mental cobwebs and kickstarting the new year with a change of scenery. For me, this weekend trip to Victoria and Esquimalt is how I define wellness. Perhaps it is for you too.

Day One

With just a two-night stay planned, it made sense to skip the long ferry lineups and hop on a harbour-to-harbour float plane instead. Flying seems more practical when maximizing limited time for a quick visit—and it’s infinitely more rock star. Harbour Air flies from downtown Vancouver directly to Victoria’s Inner Harbour in a matter of minutes.

After a smooth water landing, my husband and I walked up the ramp with wheelie bags in tow and went straight to dinner at Ugly Duckling in Victoria’s always charming Chinatown. There’s something about the small size of this neighbourhood, the silk lanterns that zigzag the streets and the variety of independent shops that invite one to slow their stroll. A modest doorway glows, and inside Chef Corbin Mathany is waiting to greet us. Since opening his restaurant a couple of years ago, awards and accolades from media like Vancouver magazine (BCLiving’s sister pub!), Enroute and more have set this small but mighty Asian-fusion restaurant on a must-eat-here list.

Try the early winter tasting menu plus wine pairings. We went with B.C. wineries, including some unsung heroes like Howling Bluff‘s Faux Paw frizzante. Seasonal ingredients are the stars of this resto-show, often foraged by Chef Mathany himself. A cozy room, no pretence, warm servers and zero issues with serving me gluten-free.

After dinner and a short drive to Esquimalt, we checked in at the new Rosemead House. This 1906 Edwardian heritage property was heavily redesigned to become a boutique hotel, and it is a beauty. Lenny Moy of Aragon Properties bought it in 2015 and worked with design architect Paul Merrick to create something new for Vancouver Island. We checked into one of 28 guest rooms, each different from the next, featuring a heady swirl of vintage furniture and artwork, not shying away from bold jewel tones and the plushest fabrics.

Day Two

Have breakfast in the bar. Sounds odd, but once you see Rosemead House’s lounge, you’ll understand. At night, it buzzes as a cocktail club with velvet love seats, but come morning, hotel guests can tuck into a full hot breakfast with excellent coffee.

After a sea-air stroll on the nearby Esquimalt shoreline, we went back to the hotel for some relaxation and restoration. A sucker for a great spa with serious style, I had been waiting for the Rosemead’s new Salt & Ivy Spa to open its doors. Stepping through those doors, I had to brace myself by holding on to the salt-block check-in counter for a moment or two. A towering faux cherry blossom tree sets the tone for a spa you need to see to believe. I watched the jaw drop of every new guest that entered the space until I was invited in for my glacial gloss cryotherapy facial. An icy-techy wand glided over my face on repeat, and I left the spa with a serious glow-on.

A low-key day in our room, including a long soak in a vintage clawfoot tub, was the perfect rainy afternoon respite. Up next? Dinner at Janevca Kitchen & Lounge, the Rosemead’s much-buzzed-about restaurant. Chef Andrea Alridge is a woman well acquainted with wood fire grilling, having spent a chunk of her career doing so at CinCin in Vancouver. The room design is delightfully over the top with a huge tree and foliage that changes with the season. The menu features local and seasonal fare like Rossdown Farms wood-grilled chicken, savoury sides and more.

Day Three

Following an easy check-out and a quick drive back to Victoria, a visit to Better Acres Ice Cream Scoop Shop seemed in order before boarding our flight. Situated on Government Street, this is the brick-and-mortar store for the ice cream brand brought to us by Lori Joyce, formerly of Cupcakes stores and, of course, the reality TV series The Cupcake Girls. Joyce’s solo venture offers 12 flavours of premium ice cream (including gluten-free waffle cones), all scooped fresh or in tubs to take home.

The shop is adorable, an homage to her farm upbringing and her parents. I loved the pistachio (not too sweet), but it’s the sea salted cream that has ruined me forever. Like frozen whipped cream, I believe this is perfect paired with anything.

Gazing out my window on the flight home, I summed up my whirlwind weekend, which for some reason didn’t seem whirlwind-y at all. I did a lot, but at a pace that was soft and not stressed. Am I ready to tackle 2026? Thanks to this reset, just watch me.