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The craft of making good coffee has come home, with simple, high-quality tools that put the power to make a great brew back into your hands
There’s been a resurgence in the craft of making good coffee – by hand. Thank the hipster, third-wave coffee shops, which look to old-school techniques like the pour-over and the vacuum syphon.
First-wave coffee was more utilitarian than epicurean, brought coffee into homes via massive tins and produced a weak, flat but serviceable brew. Second-wavers brought us nomenclature like “double-double” and “triple venti half-caff no-foam latte”. Third wave coffee shops – like Caffe Artigianoand Elysian Coffee – are for the connoisseurs; they focus on bean origin, delicate roasting and nuanced brewing techniques.
What’s even better is that manual brewers, which are simpler and less expensive, are proving to be superior to their electric, push-button, automated counterparts. The third-wavers have brought back the basics and people are running with it, to exacting standards: water should be at 195-205°F (if you don’t have a thermometer, boil water then wait 30 seconds off heat), coffee should be stirred once or twice at timed intervals, filters should be good quality and should be rinsed, water should be poured concentrically in V-drips, etc. The truly serious home-baristas will even weigh out their coffee and water and use a timer to know when to stir, how long to brew, and exactly when to pour.
These sound like rules, but perfection is subjective. You can change the flavour profile of a coffee bean just by changing the temperature of the water, the type of grind, how long you brew, how long you allow the grounds to “bloom”, etc. Make the process fun, even entertaining, and keep experimenting until you brew something you love.
People now talk about coffee the way they talk about good wine; coffee can be fruity, acidic, earthy, robust, caramelly and bright. With 700-1,500 aroma compounds (compared to wine’s 300-600) it’s justifiable to start talking about coffee’s flavour profiles with a bit more respect (and a lot more adjectives). Plus there’s also soil, shade and altitude to consider, in addition to country of origin.
Buying Beans Todd Pollock, VP with Caffè Artigiano, stresses that you need to buy your beans as close to the roasting date as possible. Generally, give them a two-week window before considering them stale. A package of quality beans or beans from a reputable source will always indicate a roasting date, usually with a sticker on the bottom of the bag. And Pollock says if you buy your beans pre-packaged, make sure the bag features a one-way valve. This valve allows for CO2 to escape (a by-product of fresh roasting) while preventing oxygen from entering (and degrading the volatiles in the delicate beans).
Know Your Beans It’s not enough to know which country your beans are from – if you really want to pursue that perfect cup of coffee, make sure your beans are from a reputable source that has a good relationship with the farm and farmers.
When it comes right down to what kind of beans to buy, Pollock encourages consumers to pull away from the idea of “light, medium and dark” roasts as flavour descriptors. Instead, he’d rather educate people about the elements that influence a coffee’s flavour profile. At Caffè Artigiano, for example, they’ll ask you what kind of flavours you like (caramel, chocolate, citrus, etc.) what kind of body you prefer (bold, earthy, bright, etc.) and go from there.
In general, beans grown in a lower altitude are earthier, and higher altitude are sharper; beans from Africa are bright (even sparkling), floral and more acidic; beans from South and Central America are spicy, fruity and chocolatey; Asian beans produce coffee that’s rich, syrupy and bold. This kind of information is shown on the front and back of every bag of Caffè Artigiano coffee.
Storing Beans When you get them home, Pollock suggests you think of them as you would potatoes: store them in a cool, dark place. He keeps his beans in an opaque, airtight container in the lowest cabinet in his kitchen. And never put them in the fridge or freezer, which can draw out and destroy the delicate oils.
Grinding Beans If you’re having beans ground in-store and you don’t know precisely what kind of grind you need, Pollock recommends simply telling the barista what kind of coffee maker you have and letting their expertise guide the grind. If you’re grinding at home, always use a burr grinder. Not sure what that is? Read on.
If you’re using a blade grinder at home, two terrible things are happening to your coffee beans:
Both these issues result in muddy, flat and inconsistent coffee.
What’s a Burr? Instead of blades, burr grinders operate like a mortar and pestle, grinding the beans instead of cutting them. This produces uniform grinds without destroying any of the oils. They range widely in price, but any one will always be better than the most expensive blade grinder.
Jeetinder Ghataurah at Vancouver’s Espressotecsays that many customers coming in with the intent of purchasing new coffee maker really just need a better grinder. “You can make fantastic coffee with a $20 coffee maker and a good burr grinder.”
Manual Grinder: Hario Skerton Ceramic Coffee Mill ($38.95)Hariodoes a brilliant job with manual coffee grinders, and if you’re committing yourself to the coffee-making experience, there’s something deliciously satisfying about crunching down on those beans and feeling the crackling under your hands.
It’s obviously compact and simple in design, but very efficient. Hario makes one even slimmer than the one shown above, and several more that are larger and charmingly designed to look like they came out of an apothecary.
Pros:
Cons:
Who’s going to love this:
Electric Grinder: Baratza Virtuoso Preciso Grinder ($319) For a powerhouse of a grinder, this Baratza has a surprisingly small footprint. It grinds beautifully and quickly – it’s just a breeze to use. Baratzas in general make solid performers but the Preciso is particularly elegant and, well, precise.
These are called “V-drips” because the cone is shaped like a “V” allowing the hot water to funnel down through the grinds, producing a coffee that drips directly into a mug. A more modern label for them is “pour-over” because you pour hot water over the grinds.
The classic Melitta conewill look familiar. It’s been on the market for over 100 years. This pour-over style is becoming popular again, even making appearances in coffee shops. It’s a bit of a nostalgic throwback and, for many, the simplicity and near-instantaneous gratification are what make it a classic. (Available at Canadian Tire and Home Hardware)
Clever Coffee Dripper
You can get glass and ceramic versionsof this V-drip design, but the really exciting advancement in this area comesfrom the Clever Coffee Dripper. It looks very similar to the Melitta in design, except that it has a built-in stopper, allowing you to immerse the coffee grounds for as long as you prefer before releasing it into a cup. The Clever design holds the coffee in the cone until it is placed on top of a mug, which pushes up on the stopper, releasing the coffee. It really is very clever. Essentially, this combines the best of filter cone drippers and the French Press.
The Aeropressis an ingenious little device that combines the best of French Press and espresso brewing, allowing you to make one or two perfect cups of coffee at a time. There are basically two tubes: the first one holds the filter, coffee grinds and water; when the second one is inserted, its rubber tip creates an air-tight vacuum and as you push down, the trapped air forces the water to express through the grinds. You’re left with very clean, sediment-free concentrated coffee. Then you just add water to taste, much as you would to make an Americano.
The JavaJugis the very new addition to the Aeropress family. It was designed so that you can make and hold up to four cups of coffee – a nice feature that makes the Aeropress a lot more versatile. It also acts as a carrying case, since the entire Aeropress assembly slips right in, making it even easier to travel with.
One of the best features of the Aeropress is the clean-up, which is virtually hands-free and mess-free. After you’re done pressing out your coffee, unscrew the bottom (which holds the filter in place), then continue pressing and a tidy, compact puck of grounds will simply pop out. If you’re making another cup of coffee immediately, you can even reuse the paper filter (you can actually use it up to five times), although a re-useable metal filter is also available.
For anyone who thought the French Press hadn’t changed much in decades, you’ll be blown away by the advancements in the very smart, very efficient the Espro Press. Created by Vancouverites Bruce Constantine and Chris McLean, the Espro Press has reinvented the French Press, making a vessel that produces a sludge-free coffee while keeping it simple to use.
The Espro Press recently de-throned Bodum as the French Press-of-choice by mega home retailer Williams Sonoma. Even without the WS seal of approval, this is bound to become the new standard for press-style coffee makers.
This press pot comes with two fine-mesh filters. The lower primary filter is nine times finer than standard French Press filters; the inner secondary filter is 12 times finer. Together they create a filtration that is just as easy to use as a traditional French Press, but produces a very clean, flavourful and sediment-free cup of coffee.
Plus, the filters prevent the brewed coffee from interacting with the grounds below so your coffee will never sit in the grounds and become over-extracted. You’re guaranteed that your last cup will taste as good as your first cup. Plus, the vessel features a vacuum wall with double insulation, meaning your coffee will stay piping hot for an hour or two. Now you can actually make your coffee in advance and serve as needed through a meal.
Co-founders Constantine and MacLean began with a small one-cup model (8 oz), then successfully used Kickstarter recently to fund the production of a larger model (30 oz). Then, due to customer demand, used Kickstarter again earlier this year to create their latest medium-sized vessel (18 oz), which brews enough for two large mugs.
There’s a devoted following to the old school, yet gorgeous, Chemex coffee brewer. It was invented by a German Ph.D. chemist in 1941 who was looking for an easier and more efficient way to brew immersion-style coffee. This resulting vessel is so simple yet so elegant it’s actually on permanent display at MOMA NY, in the Smithsonian and many other art institutes around the world.
The Chemex was literally born out of a lab: its first incarnation was a mashup of a laboratory glass funnel and an Erlenmeyer flask. A couple of years later and the Chemex was ready for the public. It’s made of heat-resistant borosilicate glass in an hourglass shape with a polished wood collar and leather tie at the neck.
Beyond its beauty and elegance, it simply brews a clean and delicious cup of coffee. It’s a pour-over method but the special Chemex filters are 20-30% heavier, so they remove far more sediment than traditional filters. Remember this was conceived by a Ph.D. scientist, so everything was engineered to allow for the optimal immersion time of the coffee grounds in the hot water before being filtered.