72 Hours: Exploring B.C.’s Gold Rush History in Barkerville-Cariboo

For years, I’ve listened to my sister go on and on about how Barkerville and Wells were historically significant pioneering towns worth writing about. Those lucky enough to have visited Barkerville-Cariboo know the secret. On my recent trip, I quickly uncovered why these picturesque towns bring on such strong feelings about connections to our collective past. Follow along with me for a three-day itinerary into Barkerville and Wells’ gold rush era.

Day One

I flew out of the YVR’s South Terminal into the Quesnel airport on a sunny day aboard Central Mountain Air. The direct flight is an efficient way to get to the Cariboo. The comfortable, quick 80-minute flight boasts views of the interior’s sky-blue lakes, rivers and mountain landscapes.

Walk Across Quesnel’s Old Bridge

The Old Fraser River Bridge is believed to be the longest wooden truss bridge in the world still in use (at 831 feet). Having opened on May 24, 1929, the heritage bridge leads to the 9.5 km Quesnel Riverfront Trail. The scenic footpath winds past the Fraser and Quesnel rivers, accompanied by signage that provides insight into the area’s history.

Dinner

Head over to Quesnel’s award-winning brew house, Barkerville Brewing Co. This spot is part of the BC Ale Trail, an association that supports and promotes local craft beer across the province. Known for its fresh, locally sourced artisanal pizzas, this restaurant serves amazing soft beef tacos that I munched on at the long table. Sloppy but delicious, it was the ideal lunch before heading to Wells.

Check In to the Wells Hotel

The English Tudor-style Wells Hotel is a historic Cariboo icon with 13 pet-friendly guest rooms, all of which include breakfast. Opened in 1934, the Wells Hotel transports you back in time. The parlour décor pays homage to the 1930s, while the 55-seat pub and restaurant offer a casual tavern-like ambience. My well-appointed room was small but comfortable, clean and cozy. The inn is full of history and charm that make for a memorable, one-of-a-kind experience.

Day Two

Breakfast at Diggy’s Diner

Diggy’s Diner is reminiscent of classic 1930s diners, with its checkered floors, retro red chairs and Formica tables. But don’t be fooled, Diggy’s’ ambience, down-home friendliness and simple, delicious menu offerings can’t be beat. They also sell their own brand of freeze-dried meal bags and confection, homemade preserves and camping supplies.

Explore the Town

Built around gold mining, during its heyday (circa 1940), the population boomed to roughly 4,500. Today, that number has dwindled to 200 residents. Wells might be a ghost of its former self, but this town is rooted in community with a spectacular backdrop and offering a range of cultural activities that attract people from all over the world. A walk through the streets’ well-preserved, colourfully vibrant heritage homes and buildings offers a nostalgic glimpse into a bygone era. A must-stop is the Frog on the Bog Gifts Shop. Here, you can grab a cup of coffee (arguably the best in town), baked goods and an eclectic mix of souvenirs, clothing, handmade leather products, books and more.

Lunch at Becker’s Lodge

A 30-minute drive from Wells is the idyllic Becker’s Lodge Resort. Nestled within the Bowron Lake Provincial Park, the resort sits on 30 acres with breathtaking views of Bowron Lake and the Cariboo Mountains. Although the restaurant is quaint, embracing the log cabin’s old-style pub décor, I sat at one of the outdoor picnic tables sprinkled along the lawns. With a large dose of small-town friendliness (a running theme here in the Cariboo), the chicken wrap with salad hit the spot.

Nature Trekking by Canoe

I picked up my rental paddles from Becker’s Lodge and headed to Bowron Lake to explore the waters. Situated on the western slopes of the Cariboo Mountain Range, paddling for an hour on these glacier-fed, sky-blue waters was an unforgettable experience. Bowron Lake is part of a pristine chain of lakes called the Bowron Lake Canoe Circuit. Ranked among the top 10 canoe routes in the world for serious paddlers, the circuit offers some of the best wildlife sightings in the country. I met two German paddlers who had just finished two weeks of paddling the circuit. They saw bears, seven moose and three calves. I was green with envy.

Dinner at the Wells Hotel

Do not let the modest restaurant fool you. The cuisine at the Wells Hotel’s restaurant was a pleasant surprise. The restaurant, with its antique stove and stone fireplace, was packed and animated. Being such a beautiful night, I sat on the outdoor patio to enjoy some of the best (and most visually appealing) sushi rolls and burrito bowl that I’ve had recently. Culinary prowess isn’t only reserved for lauded city restaurants.

Day Three

Barkerville was founded by William “Billy” Barker, a prospector who struck gold in 1862. It is said that Barker hit pay dirt on his first day with 60 oz of gold. Word of his claim spread, and before long, miners from across the globe descended on what became Barkerville. The original Barkerville was mostly destroyed by fire in 1868, but the residents soon rebuilt. In the Cariboo, Barkerville is the shining attraction for many a history buff. Designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 1924, the Barkerville Historic Town & Park is Western Canada’s largest living history museum, boasting more than 125 heritage buildings, period displays, restaurants and shops.

Barkerville is on the traditional, ancestral and unceded territory of the Lhtako Dene Nation and Secwépemc Peoples. In 1862, there were several Indigenous settlements around Barkerville, and there are many more nations that have history and territory in the region. Until recently, the Indigenous history in the area and colonial impact of the gold rush was largely overlooked. Today, when you visit, you can hear stories of survival spanning thousands of years, and the town is working toward Truth and Reconciliation. 

A Guided Tour

There are several guided tours around Barkerville throughout the day. Each one is hosted by a period-costumed interpreter portraying some of the best-known characters from Barkerville’s rich, and sometimes rowdy, colourful past.

On the Chinatown tour, I learned that in 1863, between 5,000 and 8,000 Chinese immigrants from China’s Pearl River Delta made the voyage across the Pacific and then travelled on foot from New Westminster to Barkerville. The town also has the distinction of being one of the first Chinatowns in Western North America. Despite challenges imposed by white local authorities, some Chinese settlers found gold, but many more worked in Barkerville’s grocery stores, restaurants, hotels, motels, tea rooms and lounges.

All the tours are a fascinating journey into the past—and I have to say the acting was superb. 

Explore and Eat

If you are feeling peckish after a couple of tours, make your way to the popular Goldfield Bakery and join the queue for any one of its baked goods, sausage rolls or sourdough bread. I went for a finger-licking buttery strawberry scone.

Then, take a stroll down Main Street, lined with restored heritage buildings and homes. Explore the various shops, saloons and restaurants, many of which are also staffed by costumed interpreters and shop owners who bring the town’s history to life.

Recover from the sensory overload with lunch at Wake Up Jake for a good old-fashioned hearty sandwich. Housed in what was once a boisterous saloon during the gold rush, it is now a popular restaurant.

Dinner and a Show

Catch a performance at the Theatre Royal, the oldest operating theatre in Western Canada. This lively, entertaining theatre performance has it all—music, dancing, drama and laughs—that showcase the culture and entertainment of the gold rush era. Finish off the day with dinner at Chinatown’s Lung Duck Tong Restaurant. With an extensive menu offering fresh, authentic Cantonese cuisine, I dove into the flavourful prawn and vegetable stir-fry with rice.

Day Four

Before I flew home, I stopped at Cottonwood House, one of the last remaining roadhouses in B.C. It was built in 1864 and operated by the Boyd family for over 50 years, offering accommodation, meals and provisions to miners and travellers on their journey along the Cariboo Wagon Road to Barkerville or Quesnel. I spent half an hour touring around the restored buildings.

Barkerville and Wells are well-preserved testaments to B.C.’s golden beginnings, attracting between 65,000 and 70,000 people annually. The history, the sheer natural unspoiled beauty, the enchantingly restored buildings and the residents captured my heart—and I can’t wait to return.